Shirt fitting, measuring, and curious results

[amethyst73]

So you remember how I mentioned that nearly everything in the shirt I made felt small? I just did an experiment suggested both by my husband and (effectively) by onyoukai (from this page he sent me).  I compared the various measurements of the top I made with a (knitted, but loose and comfy fit that I rarely stretch while wearing) top I already own.  Here's the lowdown.  (I haven't done sleeve cap measurements yet.)

Shoulder width:
 Shirt that fits: 15.25"
 Shirt I made: 15.5"

Upper back width:
  Shirt that fits: 14 7/8"
  Shirt I made: 15"

Back width:
  Shirt that fits: 19"
  Shirt I made: 19"

So far, so good, eh?  Here's the kicker:

Circumference:
  Shirt that fits: 18"
  Shirt I made: 16" (probably actually 16.25, given measurement off pattern)

Well.  That would probably do it, eh?

Short sleeve circumference ends up putting the back measurements higher than they ought to be - not in the right place at all, compared to the shirt that fits.  Which is presumably why the back and shoulder end up feeling somewhat pinched.

Clearly, I'll need to mess around with the sleeve circumference in my next (muslin!) draft. Reminder to self: distribute extra length along both front and back (which is going to mean messing with the dart, isn't it?).  It should be an inch each on the front and the back - seam allowances are built into the original pattern, so I can go off of that.  (Or should I put all that extra length on the back??  Maybe try a couple of versions, see what works better.)

Dart messing thoughts: I can probably use the original pattern and mark the main dart dot off of it relative to [not sure - originally thinking bottom of the armscye, but that'll be in a new place, so if I reference that the dart tip will be ~1" lower, which I don't want], draw a line to the bottom of the armscye, measure the angle of the original dart, and duplicate that on the new pattern.  Right?

The other thing I'll need to do at the same time is to add width at the waist - a good 5 inches total, or 1.25" off the edges on front and back.

I still may also buy the larger size pattern and see how it does before adjustments, mostly in planning for future garments.  Also, really need to get a designer's curve now.

Comments

[amethyst73.livejournal.com]

Wah...? 5'10"/5'11"??!? Geez, men aren't *all* basketball stars in this country!

Giant JoAnn's sale today. :D Got myself a combo Fiskars pack of cutting mat, rotary cutter, and 6" wide ruler - hellooooo, faster fabric cutting for certain things! And a designer's curve. Plus fabric for the easiest-looking skirt in the world (http://www.shrimpsaladcircus.com/2012/08/sew-super-simple-skirt-sewing-101.html) to go with MVFS(TM), and, well, some really pretty purple stuff that's going to get made into a pair of shorts because I Could Not Resist Pretty Fabric On Sale.

JoAnn's is a dangerous, dangerous place.

[onyoukai.livejournal.com]

Oh yeah, I think that's called a dirndl skirt, I remember reading about that in my patternmaking textbook. The idea is just starting with a rectangle, and you fit it to the waist with gathering or pleats. It's the type of geometric garment construction you see in a lot of historical garments. Pants would be the same idea, except you have two rectangles, one for each leg, and a giant diamond shape for the crotch.

Fiskar's spring-loaded scissors are the best. I have both the fabric shears and a pair of 2" snips.

I had to ban myself from anymore fabric shopping at Joann for the time being, I have WAY too much I've accumulated from costumes that need to actually get made. I don't seem capable of walking out of that store while spending less than $60-80 at a time.

[amethyst73.livejournal.com]

Yup, that's the type of skirt exactly.

I think I need to stop buying fabric too; I only have the 2 projects' worth (though it was a heck of a temptation to get fabric for the next shirt attempt; I had to keep reminding myself that it'll probably be a month or so before I'm that far, longer if I make the skirt and shorts first), and it'll take more time than I think to do those. There will be other sales, and there's always perpetual 40% coupons, and the pretty fabrics will all still be there some months from now...